It was Easter, but bitterly cold, so we had the river pretty much to ourselves and it was like being back in the 19th or even (for Poldark fans) the 18th century.
We were aboard Luke Powell’s replia Scillonian pilot cutter Agnes, and most of the time, our only companions on the river were his earlier build Eve of St Mawes and the fine Danish gaff cutter Eda Frandsen.
The deep waters of Carrick Roads were for once mercifully free of mothballed cargo ships, and we sailed cheerfully up and down between the high, wooded banks, nosing in and out of the creeks. At Restronguet, alas, the wind and the waves frustrated us from making the Pandora Inn, but on another day, the beach at St Just creek welcomed Agnes’ elegant tender and we spent a pleasant hour in the church and its magnificent churchyard.
Further downstream, as Falmouth Harbour opens out, the choice of destinations also broadens out. St Mawes, small, harboured and with a pleasant waterside stroll up to the tiny cloverleaf castle is unmissable – especially during the annual Pilot Cutter Review in May. Not a bad idea to base yourself there if you can, walk out to St Anthony’s Head, or take the harbour ferry across to Falmouth, which will seem alarmingly busy and urban. Turn left off the ferry pier, and follow the sinuous main street to Town Quay and the Chain Locker pub, and you’ll soon feel at home. Peter Willis

Top: Beached dinghy at St Just, with Agnes anchored off; centre: Eve of St Mawes; bottom: Eda Frandsen